A Quick Guide to Printing True Metallic Inks

Let’s talk metallics — and specifically true metallic inks. When I say “true metallics,” I’m referring to the liquid golds and silvers that contain actual metallic pigment. These are the inks that give you that creamy, mirror-like metallic finish that shimmers without looking glittery or chunky.

If your ink is labeled “shimmer” or “glitter,” that’s a completely different animal. Those inks contain polyester flake, and they behave just like standard plastisols with only a couple things to watch for:

• Don’t go too high on mesh count — 60 to 85 mesh is usually ideal.

• Remember that shimmer and glitter inks are reflective, which means they can bounce heat away from flashes, quartz units, and even IR dryers. A print that looks under-flashed may actually be reflecting the heat instead of absorbing it.

But now let’s get into the real stars of the show — liquid metallics.

What Makes True Metallics Different

Liquid golds and silvers contain actual metal particles, and that comes with two important handling rules that a lot of printers don’t learn until they ruin a bucket (or a job).

1. Metallic Pigments Can Tarnish

One of the luxuries of plastisol is that you can leave the lid off a bucket for half a lifetime and it won’t dry out.

This is not true for liquid metallics.

Because these inks contain real metal pigment, exposure to air will cause them to tarnish. A bucket of liquid gold left open too long will slowly turn brown as oxidation sets in.

Rule #1: Always keep the lid tightly sealed when the ink is not in use.

2. The Printed Ink Film Can Tarnish Too

Just like the ink in the bucket, the cured print can tarnish over time — especially after repeated washing.

The pro technique here is simple:

• Print a clear top coat (like an HD gel) over the metallic.

This seals the ink, protects the metal particles from the wash cycle, and helps preserve that mirror-like finish.

Mesh, Stencil, and Stroke Strategy

To get the best results from metallics — shimmers, flakes, or true liquids — pay attention to mesh and stencil setup:

• Mesh Count:

  60–85 mesh is ideal for metallic flakes and liquid metallics.

• Stencil Thickness:

  These inks benefit from 50% or greater E.O.M. (emulsion over mesh).

  A thicker stencil holds more ink, which is exactly what metallic pigments need to look glossy and smooth.

• Stroke Sequence:

  A great approach is:

  
  

  1. Two print strokes

  2. Flash

  3. One or two more strokes

  
  

This builds a thicker, smoother ink film that enhances reflectivity.

Prep the Ink Like You Mean It

Metallic inks settle fast and separate hard. Before they go anywhere near the screen, they need real prep:

• Stir.

• Mix.

• Shear.

• And then shear again.

Treat that ink like it owes you money. Metallics look their best when the pigment is fully suspended and evenly distributed.

The Bottom Line

True metallics can look absolutely stunning — but only if you treat them differently than standard plastisols. Seal the bucket, seal the print, use the correct mesh and stencil thickness, and give the ink the mixing session it deserves.

Print them right, and you’ll get that high-end liquid metal finish every customer wishes they had asked for.